Tag Archives: Lunch

2017 Cookery Project — Steak and Cottage Fries

Steak and Cottage Fries

Steak and Cottage Fries

Because I was mentally and physically exhausted from doing my taxes last night—All those numbers to key into the H&R Block screens! All those NEXT buttons to click!—I felt like staying in and cooking instead of going out today, so I reviewed what I had on hand, and came up with this simple lunch.

I took some top round, seared it, and then braised it in beef stock and red wine, something I could probably do with my eyes closed. (I decided to keep them open, though, because there was no one around to impress with my daring, kitchen skills, and savoir faire, so there was no point in risking major injury. I still have bad memories, and a few second degree burn scars, from the last time I tried it….)

My basic rule for the 2017 Cookery Project is that each dish must include a new-to-me technique or ingredient. This time, that requirement was met when I used a method for cooking potatoes that I learned from a recipe called Chef John’s Cottage Fries from allrecipes.com. I’ll let Chef John himself describe it:

I like it spicy, so I went a bit overboard with the cayenne pepper. I’ll reduce it next time.

I crumbled some bleu cheese over the beef, and garnished the dish with parsley, because why not?

Another success in the kitchen!

Ristoteca Oniga, and the Best Meal I Had in Venice

Restaurants in Venice are likely to be more famous for their high prices than for their great cuisine. It should be a first-rate seafood city, but Barcelona and New Orleans have no need to fear Venetian competition. Of the dozen or so places I tried, all of them highly recommended by Yelp, TripAdvisor, or other independent sources, only one of the full-service restaurants made me crave a second visit.*

That was Ristoteca Oniga, near Ca’ Rezzonico, in the Dorsoduro sestiere.

Like many of the restaurants in Venice, the exterior looks shabby and uninviting—Island weather conditions can be rough on buildings. I never made it inside, though, because it was a perfect spring day, and Oniga, which fronts on a pleasant square called Campo San Barnaba, has lots of outdoor seating.

Campo San Barnaba

Campo San Barnaba



A nice selection of fresh bread is always a good sign. I’d never seen those round baked goods that look like big Cheerios before, but I ate every crunchy one of them, and could have eaten more.

Mussels and Clams

Mussels and Clams

These sautéed mussels and clams with a tomato and garlic sauce made up the single best dish I had in Venice. The picture is deceptive in that it doesn’t convey the size of the serving. Those croutons, for instance, were the largest I’ve ever seen. I didn’t count the mussels, but the discarded shells filled two big bowls.



The shellfish starter set a high standard for anything that came later. The monkfish with tomatoes, olives, and capers, came close.

The people at the next table were from Los Angeles, and, like me, were delighted by the quality of the food, and impressed with the American-sized servings. We joked about being overwhelmed, and they let me take these pictures of what was left of their meal after five hungry adults had had a go at it.

Must also mention that the service was also excellent, and the server was exemplary.

*I’m specifying “full-service restaurants” to exclude things like cicetti bars and Venice’s multitudinous gelato shops, which are irresistible and addicting. It was a rare day in Venice that I passed up a double scoop of wonderful.

Lunch at Trattoria Cherubino

Trattoria Cherubino is a small family restaurant a few streets away from Piazza San Marco. It’s been around forever, has no website, and has a reputation for serving authentic Northern Italian seafood.

Spaghetti alla Veneta

Spaghetti alla Veneta

My First Course, my Primi Piatti, was Spaghetti with Cuttlefish. The cuttlefish morsels had the taste and texture of mushrooms, and the spaghetti got its colour from the cuttlefish’s ink.

Cuttlefish belong to the same class as squid and octopuses, and I’m beginning to have doubts about eating them. Octopuses in particular seem to have a surprisingly high intelligence. I need to research this a little more.

Frittura mista dell'Adriatico

Frittura mista dell’Adriatico

This dish, mixed fried fish from the Adriatic Sea, was challenging.

It really was a mixture. I counted at least nine different sea creatures, only four of which I could definitely identify. I was at a loss as to how some of the fish should be eaten. Was that part edible? Is that an eel? Should this be eaten whole?

But travel is about discovering and trying new things. If I’d just wanted American food, I might as well have stayed in Washington, and sent out for Lechón Asado or Pad Kra Prao Gai. So I soldiered on.

It was a memorable meal, and the service was friendly and charming, but I’d probably order a different main if I dined there again.

2017 Cookery Project — Spiced Pork Tenderloin with Cherry-Thyme Pan Sauce

Spiced Pork Tenderloin with Cherry-Thyme Pan Sauce

Spiced Pork Tenderloin with Cherry-Thyme Pan Sauce

For whatever reason, I’ve been finding it particularly difficult to get centered now that I’ve returned to the US. It shouldn’t be a problem—I was only gone a couple of weeks—but I’ve been both antsy and low energy since I got back. As a result, I’ve been living on deli and carryout. Good quality carryout, but carryout nonetheless.

Today, for the first time since I left Venice, I made a serious lunch at home.

I turned to an old recipe from Epicurious for Spiced Pork Tenderloin with Cherry-Thyme Pan Sauce. I gave the pork loin a coriander rub, and then pan-fried it in olive oil to give it a golden crust on all sides. Once that was done, I removed it and cooked sliced shallots and a dozen sprigs of thyme in the same pan. Then came balsamic vinegar, red wine, deglazing, and the secret ingredient, sugar. After the sauce cooked down, I swirled in a big hunk of butter, because once I’m in the kitchen, I turn into a total hedonist who cares not a bit about things like high cholesterol levels. The last thing into the pan was a generous portion of dark sweet cherries. The last things out of the pan were those sprigs of thyme.

(This being April, I had to use frozen-but-thawed cherries. Can’t wait to try this recipe again once I can get fresh ones.)

For the side, I used an incredibly simple Martha Stewart recipe. I sautéed minced garlic in—here it comes again—a big hunk of butter, then wilted spinach in it. It always surprises me how much things like spinach and kale cook down. You start with what looks like a three-week supply, and end up with two meagre servings.

It all worked, and it looked great.

Ca’ D’Oro — Octopus vs Meatball

Ca’ D’Oro (Alla Vedova)

It’s officially Ca’ D’Oro, after the name of a nearby palace, but the natives know it as Alla Vedova — “The Widow’s Place”. It’s hidden away on an easy-to-miss street, has no website, and features yet another less than enticing façade.

Oh, and it’s good enough to be listed in the Michelin Guide, which describes it as:

“A historic restaurant with retro charm run by the same family since the late 19C. The concise menu focuses on Venetian dishes, especially fish and seafood, although the meatballs are also legendary.”



Those “legendary meatballs” that the Michelin Guide mentions are called “Polpette”. They’re made with ground meat—pork and maybe veal for the ones I tried—grated cheese, fresh parsley leaves, garlic, and minced onion. The formed meatballs are dredged in breadcrumbs and fried.

At Ca’ D’Oro, you can have them as the starter to a full meal, or you can eat them, and sample other cichetti, while standing at the small bar at the restaurant’s entrance. They cost €1.50 each at the bar, €2.00 at the table.

But here’s the surprise:  Maybe I was expecting too much, but I wasn’t overly impressed. They were all right, but they weren’t nearly as good as the polpette at the restaurant Bibiana, right here in Washington. Who’d’a thunk it?


My main, Polpetti in umido—octopus stewed in tomato sauce—was much more interesting. This was a dish meant to be eaten slowly, savouring each bite.

Score this one for the molluscs.

Cichetti at Cantinone Gia Schiavi



Let me tell you about cichetti.

Cichetti are finger food—small snacks, usually just a bite or two on a piece of bread, eaten standing up in a cicchetti bar or a restaurant. It’s common practice to spend an early evening moving from one venue to another, sampling as you go.

They’re served through the day, so it’s also possible to put together a lunch composed of a few cichetti. That’s what I did.

Venetians tend to take light breakfasts and have late lunches. In between, a couple of cichetti make for a good mid-morning snack.

Cantinone Gia Schiavi is a wine bar and a wine shop that has a reputation for making some of the best cichetti in Venice. Entering it was like going to a party—it was packed with people drinking wine and socializing. No seats or tables; everybody stood and mingled.

I selected the half-dozen cichetti in the picture above, and carried them outside, to eat by the canal.

After lunch, I walked over to the Gallerie dell’Accademia, Venice’s great art gallery, and spent the rest of the day there.

Lunch at Osteria Enoteca San Marco

After the museum, I was ready for lunch. I chose Osteria Enoteca San Marco, a small and stylish restaurant a few blocks from Piazza San Marco.

Nice, varied selection of bread.

Tagliatelle di farro al ragù d'anatra

Tagliatelle di farro al ragù d’anatra

The Scandinavian couple at the next table were being served this dish as I took my seat. I asked them what it was, and they told me it was Tagliatelle with Duck Ragu. By the time I was ready to order, they’d tasted enough to recommend the dish.

I liked it. The duck had been cut into pea-sized nuggets, and, as I often found to be the case in Venice, the portion was on the small side as well. Good starter.

Calamari alla griglia, gamberi marinati al lime e zenzero e verdure croccanti

Calamari alla griglia, gamberi marinati al lime e zenzero e verdure croccanti

My main was this nicely-plated serving of grilled squid and marinated raw shrimp, with lime and ginger.